Lie-Nielsen Toolworks #140B-R, Skew Block Plane R/Hand
The Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Skew Block Plane is based on the long unavailable Stanley 140. This multi-talented tool is designed to deal with difficult woods using a combination of a low angle approach, shear cutting action from the skewed and tilted blade, and extra weight of the bronze body.
A retractable nicker scores cross-grain fibres, and the removable side plate and adjustable fence allow quick conversion to rabbeting and cross-grain work, such as fielding raised panels.
Available in a left and right version for occasions when you need to approach the wood grain from the opposite direction. The removable face plate is on the left side of the "left" version of the tool, and the right side of the "right" version.
The 1-1/2" wide x 1/8" thick blade has an 18° skew and is bedded at 12° with a captive nut for positive and accurate adjusting.
- Body is 6-7/8" long x 1-7/8" wide.
- Bronze 2.15 lbs.
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks have altered the design by lowering the blade angle, and adding a fence and a captive nut blade adjuster to increase ease of use and versatility.
Two holes are provided in the fence for attaching a wood strip if desired. When not rabbeting, keep the stainless steel side on the plane to protect the acute angle of the frog.
The blade sits in the body at 12°; it comes with a 25° flat ground bevel, making the included cutting angle 37°. The skew angle is 18°.
The blade comes ready to use. Slight additional honing will increase performance. A secondary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on advanced sharpening we suggest David Charlesworth’s DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening.
The circular A-2 nicker is retracted when the flat is at the bottom. Rotate to expose the edge as needed. When fully exposed the nicker protrudes .010”. Occasionally, you may need to hone the back (flat) side of the nicker on a fine waterstone to sharpen.
Hold the tool in one hand with your fingers supporting the sole, and your thumb on the cap iron just in front of the screw.
Loosen the spinwheel, and with your thumb still holding the blade and cap, adjust the blade.
Tighten the spinwheel. Do not overtighten. You should be able to adjust the blade after loosening the spinwheel about 1/4 turn.
Because of the unsupported right side, there is some flex inherent in that thin metal edge when the cap is tensioned on the blade. This will produce a slightly tapered shaving which will normally not present a problem, but if on occasion it does, adjust the blade slightly out of parallel with the sole to produce a shaving of uniform (not tapered) thickness.
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